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La Mirabelle
89 Rue du President du Gaulle, Luçon. Tel. 02 51 56 93
02
I
was fed up, it was my least favourite weather and had been for the last
fortnight. It wasn’t as if there was no sun, there was, but the strong winds
meant that no sooner had you gone out in it you were scurrying for cover as the
rain lashed down. I would personally rather that it rained all the time than
have the teasing uncertainty that this weather brings. Now I’m not telling you
this in search of sympathy, rather to give you an idea of my mood when
approaching this restaurant review. To cap it all we were in Luçon and we hadn’t
reckoned on the fact that it was the fête de music and the restaurant that we
had chosen to eat in was fully booked. We ended up at La Mirabelle a restaurant
that we had always studiously avoided as it was by reputation expensive, but
tonight it was either La Mirabelle or the Chinese restaurant right in the middle
of town. The logic was that we would have to review La Mirabelle at some time
and so tonight might as well be the night.
Unusually for France the
restaurant didn’t open until 8 ‘o’ clock and we were amongst the first diners to
arrive. The dining room was light and airy with a muted colour scheme and modern
artwork on display. The music playing was soft, Latin American and absolutely to
my taste. Outside there was a sheltered garden in which it would have been a
delight to eat in more clement weather. We were shown to a table and asked if we
would like an aperitif, Trevor had tonic water and I ordered a glass of red
wine, the Cotes du Rhone that they served was nice enough but I figured that I
would need to be circumspect with regard to what I ordered, if I wasn’t going to
have to take out a second mortgage. The wine arrived along with some mise en
bouche, which was a glass of sardine paste and croutons, the paste was creamy
and delightfully delicate and the croutons were crunchy without being tooth
cracking. Upon finishing this we were served with a glass of light creamy crème
fresh flavoured with asparagus, it was meant I’m sure as a pallet cleanser but I
found it a bit bland and uninteresting. The entrees arrived and completely made
up for any disappointment we might have been feeling, we had both ordered the
Foie Gras de Canard Cuit en Terrine, Purée de Fruits Secs au Balsamique, which
was a Terrine of foie gras of duck liver rather than goose liver, even in
restaurants of this quality foie gras de l’oie seems to have become a thing of
the past. This was delicious, a fantastic taste and it was complimented by a
confiture of dried fruit which was incredibly tasty and sweet, there was a small
green salad and a plate of warm toast. The plate was painted with a small swirl
of concentrated balsamic vinegar and the overall effect was well balanced and
full of interesting flavours. The staff at the restaurant were charming and
attentive yet unobtrusive and we didn’t have any time to wait after finishing
our entrees for the main courses to arrive,
I had decided on the Jarret
et Pieds de Cochon Fermier en Brick Croustillante aux Graines de Moutarde, this
was the leg and trotter of a pig cooked in crispy mustard seed pastry, I was a
little concerned that this might have been a bit fatty, I needn’t have worried,
it was absolutely perfect, the pastry was superb and the pig was beautifully
cooked and the sauce had a depth of flavour that was astonishing. There were
three purees served with it one of onion, one of potato and one of mixed
vegetables all of which were superb, totally different in both their taste and
consistency and they all complimented the pork ideally. Trevor had Merlu Cuit
Vapeur, Etuvée de Carottes Glacées au Gingembre et Citron Vert, which is steamed
hake on a bed of braised carrots with a ginger and lime sauce, Trevor was
effusive in his praise for the dish, he said that the fish had been simply
steamed and not as he put it messed about with the bed of braised carrots were
perfect and he said that the ginger and lime cream sauce was a triumph. On top
was a thin crispy biscuit that finished the meal off, and it is quite alarming
to think that Trevor whose maxim is that a meal is not a meal without potatoes,
never mentioned the lack of them once.
Dessert arrived mine was Mi-Cuit
au Chocolat Noir, Crème Glacée au Café et Kamok de Luçon, Sauce Miel/Arabica, it
was a chocolate fondant with a boule of coffee ice cream in a crème anglaise.
The Fondant was as you would expect cooked to perfection, the coffee ice cream
had a hint of the fiery Luçon made coffee liqueur Kamok and crème anglaise,
topped with a honey flavoured sweet flat tuile The complexity of this dish was
astonishing there were so many competing flavours and yet everything went
together so well. Trevor had Blanc Manger au Fromage Blanc, Sablé Breton et
Marinade de Fraises, which translates into a fromage frais topped with a breton
shortcake and strawberries in a strawberry coulis. It looked great and there
were no complaints from Trevor. Following dessert we were served a final dish of
a strip of jellied Seville Orange with a lime marsh mallow and a small meringue
they were all delicious and were a perfect way to finish eating. We both chose
Guatemalan Coffee which was strong and vibrant and steeled ourselves for the
bill. We didn’t rush there were more diners now than when we had arrived and I
was amused as Trevor regaled me with tales from his somewhat murky past. The
bill when it did come didn’t disappoint, it worked out to €45 a head which is pretty expensive, It is true to say that the
meal was excellent and for a special occasion or as a place to take the special
one in your life for a romantic evening it would be the ideal place. There is no
doubt that Benoit Hermouet is a great chef, he cooks traditional Vendéen cuisine
in a modern and exciting way, this is a great place to go especially if someone
else is paying the bill. Tate - 2011
About the author: Tate
spends the summers in the Vendee and is passionate about good wine and good
food,he writes exclusively for the http://www.vendee-guide.co.uk/
The
coping of this article is permitted as long as the complete article along with
these credits are published.
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