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La
Loge.
Review by
Tate
La Proutiere Pouzauges, Tel 02 51 91 80 54
This was to be our first outing of 2011. My good friend Ron who
had travelled down with me to help me set everything up here for my summer in
the Vendée was with Trevor and I and we had decided to visit La Loge. The
restaurant had been recommended to us by good friends Stephen and Sally who had
visited it with their French neighbours Roger and Christine who both had several
years of experience as Traiteurs (outside caterers) here in France. The
restaurant is famed for its “Planche de Boucher” which is 400 grams of steak
served on a wooden board and as we were all steak fans I felt it would be a good
way of saying thank you to my two friends. I booked the restaurant which
according to the card was in a place called La Proutière on Trevor’s map this
was a small hamlet between St Michel Mont Mercure and Les Herbiers about 45
minutes drive from our base near La Châtaigneraie. Trevor drove and by some
remarkable and innate ability to know where he is, he actually found La
Proutière, unfortunately the restaurant was nowhere to be seen. I made a call to
the restaurant and they told me that we were nowhere near them as they were
actually in La Proutière which was on the outskirts of Pouzages and that if we
went into the centre of Pouzages the restaurant was well signposted.
Having first ascertained from the restaurateur that we were not going to
be too late for them, we eventually arrived at the restaurant at 8.45 some 45
minutes after our reservation. We were sat in a small secondary dining room on
our own which frankly had zero ambience, there was no window but we were able to
see the terrace out of the second doorway and there was a very large barbeque,
which I imagine is well used in the summer. Because of the lateness of the hour
we didn’t bother with aperitifs, I tried to order a non alcoholic beer for
Trevor but they didn’t have one nor Trevor’s second choice of tonic water so he
ended up with orange juice. I ordered a bottle of house wine for Ron and I which
turned out to be a bottle of 2009 Bordeaux with La Lodge’s own label on it. Now
anyone who drinks French red wine will know that it is almost impossible to find
a 2009 Bordeaux that isn’t good so it was no surprise having seen the label that
the wine was as good as it was, what was a surprise was that it cost
€14.50 a bottle which is extravagant to say the least for a house
wine. We ordered and our meals and our entrees arrived, I had a dozen Escargots
which came fairly quickly, for escargots, they were nothing special, although
the texture was good enough and though they were not at all chewy they lacked a
little taste for my liking and I found the tongs difficult to use. This may have
something to do with my lack of practice, but I have never had any problems
before, and I wondered if the snails were perhaps a little small for the
equipment. Ron had Foie Gras Perigord which I suspect was duck rather than
goose, and it was served with 3 very thin slices of raw duck breast and a small
salad. Ron said that it was alright, but that he wouldn’t have known it was duck
breast if it hadn’t said on the menu. Trevor who rarely misses the opportunity
to have a gizzard salad chose the Gizzard Salad Forestière which was warm
gizzards on a bed of salad served with mushrooms and croutons. It was big and
like all of our entrees was attractively presented and Trevor was reasonable
pleased with it, however he said that the salad was a bit limp and the croutons
were tooth-breakingly crunchy, although if you could manage to eat them they
were tasty.
No sooner were the entrees cleared away than as if by magic
the main courses materialised, we had all gone for the house speciality
“Plancher du Boucher”. The 400 grams of steak came in three guises, a pavé, a
brochette and an entrecote. Pavé roughly translates as a slab, and is similar to
rump steak, brochette is a skewer with cubes of beef on it and an entrecôte is
essentially a rib eye steak. The steaks were served on wooden carving boards
with a large bowl of what were certainly not homemade chips. I found the pavé to
be tasty and not too tough, the brochette was a bit hit and miss, both in taste
and toughness, but the entrecôte was very stringy, so much so in fact that Ron
left most of his. We ordered our deserts and I must confess that I was a bit
disappointed when my Ile Flotantte was served, I hadn’t read the menu properly
and had failed to see that it comprised ice cream and not meringue floating in
the crème anglaise. Trevor had Crème Brûlée, which he enjoyed so much we didn’t
get a taste of so couldn’t truly comment on it, but by far the desert of the day
was Ron’s Profiteroles, there were three and they were huge, served with
Chantilly cream and bathed in chocolate. Ron could only eat two of them and so
it was incumbent upon me to eat the third, solely in the interests of the review
of course and although I was very full I managed to squeeze it down and enjoy
it.
We ordered coffee which appeared with almost indecent haste as did
the bill, and when we paid and left we saw why, as the waitress’ boyfriend was
waiting in the car park headlights blazing and engine running. Now I understand
that we were late, but I did confirm during my phone call that we weren’t too
late and as such I didn’t expect to be rushed through my meal which I felt that
I was. From my subsequent conversation with our friend Stephen it seems obvious
that we didn’t receive anything like the meal or the service that he had
experienced. He said that they were served a variety of vegetables and that
there were plenty of them, we weren’t offered any, all we got was a bowl of oven
chips. In truth the meal was a bit patchy, some things were good but some things
were disappointing. We were sat in a room without ambience, rushed through a
meal that was definitely not top quality and yet it cost €145 which is not far
short of the cost of a far superior meal at the Auberge de la Rivière, which I
rate as probably the best restaurant in the Vendée. In fairness things may have
been different had we got there on time, maybe we would have been sat in the
main dining room with other diners, maybe we would have had more time to relax
and enjoy the meal, maybe we would have been offered a choice of vegetables.
However I don’t think that the food would have been any better, and I don’t
think the price would have been any less, so I have to say reluctantly I
couldn’t recommend the restaurant and I certainly didn’t think it offered
anything like value for money, in my opinion one to avoid. Tate -
2011
About the author: Tate spends the summers in the Vendee and is
passionate about good wine and good food,he writes exclusively for the http://www.vendee-guide.co.uk/
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coping of this article is permitted as long as the complete article along with
these credits are published.
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