We had tried to book at a restaurant closer to home but they were having
a Quiz Night which meant that the normal restaurant service would not
be on offer. As it is early May a lot of restaurants are not open and we
decided to bite the bullet and headed off to Luçon, about an hour away,
where there were several restaurants listed. Trevor had one or two
restaurants in mind and as we were with our good friends Stephen and
Sally and as we didn’t know what these restaurants were like, we decided
to take a chance and not make any reservations.
On arriving in Luçon we drove around without success looking for the
Avenue de President Wilson, so we stopped in the middle of town and
asked a group of young people if they knew the restaurant, they were
charming and though they didn’t know the street, they knew the
restaurant and gave us very good directions to it. We were lucky, there
were three parking spaces immediately in front of the restaurant and one
was vacant. There were tables outside and the whole front of the
restaurant was open, making the inside, which could have been dark and
dingy, light and airy. The menus looked good, there were other people
dining and we decided to give it a try. We were given a choice of tables
and decided on a table inside as the tables outside were right on the
roadside and though it was not a particularly busy street my days of
enjoying carbon monoxide as a condiment are long gone. The tables were
well set and the chairs were comfortable. The interior of the
restaurant, as the name would suggest, was modern and the walls carried
works of art emulating that.
The waiter, who was charming and attentive, brought the menus and the wine list, we all chose the €22
menu which was a starter, a main course and a desert. Having chosen my
meal I turned my attention to the wine list. I immediately called the
waiter back and said that I didn’t like any of the wines in his list. He
was very concerned and opened the wine list with a view to making some
suggestions, only to find that the plastic sleeves which should have
been filled with lists of wine, were in fact empty. We had a laugh and
he returned with a list with the sheets in it. They didn’t serve a house
wine so we settled for a Fief Vendéen, it wasn’t cheap but I’ve found
that to be a feature of the restaurants that we have visited so far this
year. Undeterred we ordered aperitifs and settled down to enjoy our
evening, there was another English party on the table next to us and of
course Trevor knew them, but there were also French people dining as
well.
Our entrées arrived Trevor Stephen and I had the Mojettes, and Vendéen
Ham Tart while Sally had the Goats Cheese in Filo Pastry, it was a good
size and was very tasty. It was served on a bed of salad which contained
some very interesting ingredients including white beetroot and some
small crinkle-cut chips that none of us could identify which turned out
to be white carrot, which Sally felt added little to the dish other than
as a topic of conversation as to its identity. The Mojettes and Vendéen
Ham tart was superb, Mojettes are white beans local to the Vendée and
they were mixed with Flageolet beans, set on a very hard flaky pastry
base and topped with a slice of Vendéen Ham. The three of us all agreed
that it was a very tasty starter the ham was good quality the beans were
in the white sauce typical of mojettes and when I tackled the chef
about the pastry, he assured me that it was traditional for the pastry
on the base of the tart to be very stiff.
Having finished our starters, the plates were cleared and our main
courses arrived covered with cloches, which the waiter and waitress
removed simultaneously in dramatic style. It was a nice touch and gave
the course a feeling of gravitas. I had the Emincé de bœuf au paprika
doux, Trevor had Marbré de rougets aux senteurs de Garrigue and Stephen
and Sally both had Tranche de saumon aux épices d’ailleurs. The salmon
was served on a piece of very hot volcanic rock which not only kept the
fish very warm but also intensified its flavour, which both Stephen and
Sally thought was delightful. Trevor’s red mullet was he said perfectly
cooked and was enhanced by the flavours and scents of the herbs. My beef
was cut into small slices and I’m guessing was probably the equivalent
of rump steak as it was a little on the tough side, now as I’ve said
before I’m happy to accept my meat a little bit tough so long as it has
plenty of flavour, and this certainly didn’t lack flavour it was cooked
rare and the sweet paprika sauce was a perfect accompaniment to the
beef. All of the dishes were served with a selection of vegetables
including a carrot, an asparagus spear, roasted turnip, some courgettes.
cauliflower and brussel sprouts all of which were from the Chef’s
father’s garden. The mixture of colours and textures were a welcome
addition to the meal and were universally enjoyed, apart from the
sprouts, which were of course frozen and Sally thought chewy.
The deserts were exceptional, Trevor had Crème de Grand Marnier façon
Tiramisu, which is Tiramisu with Grand Marnier flavoured cream, he is a
desert fan and he seemed to thoroughly enjoy it. Stephen and I had
the Moelleux à la noisette cœur coulant chocolat, which is a
chocolate hazlenut fondant. It was perfect the cake was perfectly
cooked and the centre was just gooey enough, fondants in the Vendée are
often cooked flat and solid more like a solid cake, this was deinately
not. Sally had the Pastilla de fruits exotiques. In Sally’s own words
this was “wonderful, a sweet covering to the warm fruits which tasted
like a soft pancake combined with a selection of sliced fresh fruits
providing a crisp sharp alternative to the sweetness of the sauce,-
delicious and I am not usually a desert fan”. I am indebted to Sally for
her contributions to this review all of the descriptions of her meal
are hers and she felt “Overall it was a very enjoyable experience, the
restaurant had a good ambiance and the staff were efficient and
attentive. The presentation of the dishes demonstrated artistry
and a dedication to excellence”. I can add little to that except to say
that the evening was further enhanced when the Chef/Proprietor Pierrick
Macé came and sat with us for 30 minutes or so. He insisted on giving us
a couple of digestifs and by the time we left it was like leaving an
old friend. It is truly a small world as we discovered, when we found
out that one of our favourite restaurants, the l'Auberge du Donjon at
Bazoges en Pareds, is owned and run by his cousin and he has a black and
white photo on the wall of the two of them as children, absolutely
charming. As we left he added that anyone who eats at the restaurant and
mentions the Vendée Guide will be given a free aperitif. The meal
cast us about 31 per head all in which was I thought pretty good value
for money, and I can highly recommend this restaurant. Tate - 2011
About the author: Tate spends the summers in the Vendee and is passionate about good wine and good food,he writes exclusively for the www.vendee-guide.co.uk
The coping of this article is permitted as long as the complete article along with these credits are published.