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Casse Croûte Vendéen Pouzauges
31,rue Mare Tel. 02 51 61 72 80 www.casse-croutevendeen.com
It
was a Wednesday and a beautiful summer’s day had given way to a balmy
evening. It was hard to drag oneself away from the pool but I had booked
us into the Casse-Croûte Vendéen a restaurant on the outskirts of
Pouzauges in the Haut Boccage. The restaurant is situated off the ring
road around Pouzauges which is an industrial zone and outside of the
entrance is a tractor stood on its end with the front wheels pointing
skyward. The building itself is a large wooden structure and on entering
it one is greeted with a large bar with seating being provided by
tractor seats, there is a children’s play house to the left followed by a
large auxiliary dining area and to the right the main dining area and a
large covered terrace. We were asked our preference and were shown to a
table for two in the middle of the terrace. I would have preferred
somewhere a little more to the side of the terrace but ours was the only
table for two that was vacant. After the decoration of the high
barn-like structure, which was principally agricultural machinery, the
first thing that struck me was the friendliness of the staff, we were
not only greeted by our server but by every member of staff as they
passed us. The next thing that struck me was the number of families with
young children that were dining. We were as far as I could tell the
only English diners, and in England this many children would normally
signal a noisy and often unpleasant experience, that is however not the
case in France where children are generally as well behaved as the
adults at the dinner table. In truth the selection of diners was fairly
eclectic there being groups of older people, young couples, French
holidaymakers and locals, it all augured well.
We looked at the menu, which is available online at www.cassecroute-vendeen.com
and found that we were spoiled for choice, there were Vendéen
speciality dishes, tartines, oeufs cocottes, pan fried dishes, meats and
fish and a selection of both Vendéen and other desserts. First things
first however we ordered our aperitifs, I had a Blackcurrant Kir Pétillant,
which differs from a Kir Royale insofar as it uses sparkling wine
rather than Champagne, while Trevor had a non-alcoholic beer. The staff
were too quick for us and we hadn’t even begun to unravel the
complicated menu when they first came to take our order, when they saw
that we were still deep in thought they were happy enough to leave us to
it. We eventually made our choices and they included another beer for
Trevor who was thirsty and a 50cl pitcher of house red wine at a very
reasonable €3.10
which I asked the waitress to serve immediately. I was very impressed
with the staff, the restaurant was pretty busy but the staff seemed to
relish it and looked as if they were truly enjoying themselves, they
were attentive, friendly and relaxed but most of all they were very
efficient.
Our entrées arrived. I had chosen La “P’ Chite” assiette de dégustation,
it was a taste of the Vendée with a slice of Vendéen Ham which was
smoked and uncooked much like Parma Ham, Rillaud D’ Anjou which were
cubes of cold belly pork, Rilleau Vendéen a course mixture of cold pork
in a paté form and a pot containing the contents of boudin noire which
is the Vendéen version of black pudding. This was all served on a green
salad with a couple of tomato segments and dressed in mustard
vinaigrette. It was copious, fantastically tasty and authentically
Vendéen. Boudin Noire is normally served as a sausage and is without
doubt an acquired taste and is not for the faint hearted, so I would
advise caution for anyone who does have a delicate palette, I must say
that I love it and it was an excellent surprise to find it included in
the dish. Trevor had chosen La Ressiaie, which was a salad with foie
gras flavoured with trouspinette, a local fortified wine, thin slices of
smoked duck breast, a compote of onions and a bed of rice. His comments
were that both the foie gras and the smoked duck were superb although
as always with smoked duck breast he could have eaten more, the onion
compote was tasty and the rice was an excellent addition. As we ate the
terrace filled up and as people were finishing their meals so their
tables were being cleared and filled with other diners. There were
plenty of people eating inside as well but it was a perfect evening to
be dining “Al Fresco”.
Entrées over our plates were cleared and our main courses were served.
Trevor’s was the first to arrive, he had chosen a larger version of my
starter which was served with the addition of a bowl of Mojettes, large
white beans in a white sauce which are a true staple of Vendéen cuisine,
and two large rounds of toasted bread, the whole dish was so big that
it threatened to overwhelm the table. My Poêlée du Boeuf, pan fried beef
strips, were served on a very hot skillet and were still sizzling as
they arrived. They were accompanied by homemade chips and between the
two was a barrier of mushrooms, lardons and onions. It was a simple
dish, in truth the steak was a little overcooked for me, but thin strips
of beef are almost impossible to keep rare and get hot and the
likelihood is that the hot skillet was the cause of the beef cooking too
much. The tastes complimented one another perfectly with the saltiness
of the lardons balanced perfectly by the sweetness of the sautéed
onions, and what a pleasure to eat real chips. Unsurprisingly I finished
my main course well before Trevor and hunkered down to finish the wine,
which was a little thin but at the price was perfectly acceptable.
When Trevor had finished and our plates had been cleared we perused the
dessert menu, I could easily have gone for the Crème Brûlée that they
flambé at the table or the Tart Tatin or even the Profiteroles, but both
of us ended up choosing one of the house speciality Brioches Grilées.
Brioche is another speciality of Vendéen cuisine and for those who have
never tried it is sweet soft bread and is delicious. My selection was
Une Gueroué which was toasted Brioche with a hot chocolate sauce, sliced
banana flambéed in rum with a serving of coconut ice cream and
Chantilly cream, need I say more. Trevor opted for a Pouère mol which
was toasted Brioche with a hot chocolate sauce, sliced pear and praline
flambéed in a local Vendéen liqueur and served with Chantilly cream,
ecstasy on a plate. We finished the meal with large white coffees which
were completely to my taste the coffee being very strong with the hot
milk being served in a separate jug.
All in all the meal had been a triumph although we had both eaten far
too much. The restaurant had a great ambience and the evening had been
perfect for eating on the terrace, although I can imagine that eating
inside on a winter’s evening would have an equal if somewhat different
charm. The welcome was warm and the staff were friendly and efficient,
all of which had added positively to the dining experience, even the
majority of the other diners were friendly with most new arrivals
wishing everyone “bon appetite”. The fare was very authentically Vendéen
and we had pushed the boat out and stinted at nothing, even so the
whole meal only came to €70 and a three course lunch formula is a very reasonable €9.30.
One, but not the only, reason for so many children and families eating
at the restaurant is without doubt the fact that they serve two
different children’s menus both with plenty of choice one for children
up to 10 years old and the other for youngsters up to 15 years old and
these are €6.50 and €7.30
respectively. I would be delighted to visit this restaurant again and
again, however my waistline would most certainly take the strain, I can
highly recommend it. Tate - 2011
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About the author: Tate spends the summers in the Vendee and is passionate about good wine and good food,he writes exclusively for the www.vendee-guide.co.uk
The coping of this article is permitted as long as the complete article along with these credits are published.
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