This large
village just inside the Deux Sèvre Department on the River Sèvre-Niortaise is listed as one of the prettiest
villages in France, and it will not take you long to see why. The village has
great character and charm with its busy waterside frontage lined with
restaurants, shops and quaint fishermen's houses. Everywhere there are painters
eager to capture the charm and colours of this delightful village. From
alongside the quay one can hire the traditional flat bottomed boats called
"plates" with or without a guide. Canoes and kayaks are also available for
exploring the tree-lined canals that branch off the main river. Coulon is the
capital of the Green Venice (Venice-Vert) which is the north eastern end
of the Marais Mouille (Wet Marshes), which itself is a part of the Marais
Poitevin, the second largest wetland in France. In 869 it was known as
Colunus and there was a Gallo-Roman cemetery about 800m north from the village
on the edge of the Roman way to Angers. In 1868 near the old roman ford, 2
Celtic dugouts were discovered, and in 1883 three Gallo-Roman sarcophagi were
unearthed together with 4 small bronzes of Emperor Constantine (306-337).
Further roman artefacts were found at nearby Oulmes and
can be seen in the church. The Centre of the village is dominated by the
church of St.Trinity, which was founded in 830 by the monks of Charroux and took
on the name of St Sauvier in the X11 century. Earlier in the 9th Century it had
been called the Holy Trinity, and was ransacked by the Normans and then rebuilt
in the X1 century in Romanesque style. It was further restored in the XV
century, when the southern nave and side door were remade in the Ogival Style.
The Protestants set fire to the church in 1569 and the bell tower had to be
rebuilt in 1671.
Maison des Marais Mouilles. In this museum, housed in
the old Customs House where taxes were collected for the transport of goods, one
can discover the history of the wet marshes from pre-historic times, through the
periods of the draining of the marshes by the monks and later the Dutch up to
and including modern times. There are also sections on local industries like;
wood, fishing and farming as well as the ecology of the
marshlands.
Coulon is an ideal location to start to discover this
intriguing area, whether one chooses to explore by boat, on a bike, walking or
for the less mobile by car. Along the way one will encounter charming cottages
by the riverside, a dazzling array of flora and fauna, much of which is rare and
native to the marshes, but above all one will discover the tranquillity that
makes these lands so special.