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Wines of the
Vendee
Les Fiefs
Vendeens Four wines in particular : BREM, MAREUIL, PISSOTTE
and VIX , were duly recognised by the wine aurthorities and attributed the AOVDQS label of quality.
Today, about a hundred wine
growers establised in well defined areas have launched into a great venture of
producing wine under the slogan Fiefs Vendeens (vineyards of
Vendee)
Benefiting from more sunshine than the national average,the White,
Rose' and red wines from these four areas are wines with a delicate bouquet with
completely different fragrances. The wines from the Brem area are produced from
two two different vines called Groulleau gris and chenin, they are limpid and
soft wines with a very often discreet apple aroma. Situated more to the south
east, the small vineyards of Vix and Pissotte produce full-bodied wines, They
are made from the same types of vines as the wines from the other areas, but to
which are they must add Sauvignon (Vix region) and An
Melon (Pissotte region).
To the north of the Vendee there is wine grown
that meets the AOC quality and yet other areas that produce wine in the lower
Vin de Pay and Vin de Table category.
These are the official wines, but those who live in the Vendee
tell of a different breed of wine.
It seems that a couple of hundred years
ago France lost most of her vines to the Valopterra worm. The government
decided to destroy all of the vines and re-import new vines back from California
and South Africa in the varieties that originally existed so that they could
continue with their traditional wine production. I'm informed it was at this
time that Appelation controlee was introduced to firstly control the grape
varieties that went in each distinct wine, but secondly to control the amount
that was produced, so therefore keeping the price up to pay for this
work.
Well the vendee didn't grow many grapes and it seems the worm didn't
affect them, and being good farmers they didn’t destroy what wasn't affected.
These vines still exist today and are the true Bordeaux’s. They are said to be
very Fruity and the reds are dark in colour, so much so that they say the glass
turns blue when washed. the other striking feature is that most are up to 18%
alcohol.
The stories of these wines that you hear banded about in quiet
corners say that they are called Vin-Fool; because once you start drinking you
do not detect the strong alcohol in them so you drink more than is good for
you.
I recently asked an old farmer about them, and he said there where quite
a few different ones.
The two whites he mentioned were Noah ( it is rumored
that Noah can ashore, planted his staff and this took root and became a vine).
The other was Castell white, so I presume there is also a red. The reds
mentioned were Oberlan and Jerasian.(I'm not sure of the correct spelling). It
seems there's no rose.
It is said to be illegal to grow and sell these grapes
so I'm not sure where you can get to try them out other than quietly ask the
older man in the small villages. if they like you you may be lucky. As i am no
longer able to drink (damage to liver caused by too much medicine after a back
operation) I have little interest in casing this one.
There are more wines,
generally available from locals once you get to know them, there are the
imported vines, still in their number formed. One I tried a few years ago was
Dix Huit Mille (18000) a bog standard Bordeaux wine of about 12%. Again you cant
buy them to my knowledge but often you will be given the chance to try
them.
Pineau Everyone will have heard of Pineau from the
Cognac area. Originally started from a man from Jersey who came to the Cognac
area to produce a fortified wine to compete with Sherry from Spain and Port from
Portugal. He never succeeded in his quest but the distilled alcohol of the
wine, Eau de Vie, become a world beater as the Brandy we know as Cognac.
Pineau uses Eau de Vie to fortify the local wine and is an excellent
drink.
The south Vendee is just in the Congac area in a region called Bois de
Cognac, and the older men are still permitted under a permit to have their
unusable alcohol leftovers distilled to make eau de vie. With this Eau de
vie the locals make their Pineau, these vary greatly with many
having additives like walnuts added to give a distinct
flavor.
Vendee Pineau. The True Vendee Pineau is not a
fortified wine but a fortified fruit juice, made from one of the old grape
varieties and the moment the juice is extracted the Eau de vie is added to stop
the fermentation. It is kept in oak barrels for the winter before being bottled.
I have never heard of these being available commercially though if you go to a
diner party with the locals you will often be given a glass as an aparitif.
These Pineau's are exceptionally fruity and the locals claim the finest is made
from the Noah Grape. It seems this method does not work so well with
traditional grape varieties.
Whatever the area, all these wines are cultivated
with love by each grower and the spirit of the country seems to sing in the
bottle.
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